ZDHC
A multi-stakeholder initiative working to eliminate hazardous chemicals from the textile and footwear supply chain.
ZDHC (Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals) is a collaborative industry program that brings together brands, suppliers, and chemical companies to systematically eliminate hazardous chemicals from the global textile, leather, and footwear value chain. Founded in 2011 by a group of major apparel brands, the program has grown to include over 170 contributors working toward shared chemical management goals.
The MRSL: Manufacturing Restricted Substances List
The ZDHC Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL) represents a fundamental shift in chemical management thinking. While traditional Restricted Substances Lists (RSLs) focus on chemicals that must not appear in finished products, the MRSL goes further by listing chemicals that should not be intentionally used anywhere in the production process. This upstream approach prevents hazardous chemicals from entering manufacturing facilities in the first place, addressing the root cause rather than testing for contamination after the fact.
Wastewater Guidelines
ZDHC Wastewater Guidelines establish testing parameters and performance standards for facility discharge. The guidelines define three performance levels: Foundational represents basic compliance with environmental regulations, Progressive indicates good performance exceeding minimum requirements, and Aspirational represents best-in-class practices. These tiered standards allow facilities to demonstrate continuous improvement while providing brands with clear benchmarks for supplier evaluation.
Chemical Management Tools
The ZDHC program provides practical tools for chemical management implementation. InCheck is an inventory management system that helps facilities track and evaluate their chemical usage against MRSL requirements. The program also facilitates chemical supplier verification, helping manufacturers identify and source safer chemistry alternatives. Training and capacity building programs support facilities in developing the expertise needed for effective chemical management.
ZDHC Gateway Platform
The ZDHC Gateway serves as the program's central verification and reporting platform. It hosts a database of certified chemical products that meet ZDHC criteria, enabling manufacturers to make informed purchasing decisions. Facilities report wastewater test results through the Gateway, creating transparency around environmental performance. The platform also enables supplier performance tracking, giving brands visibility into their supply chain's chemical management practices.
Conformance Levels
ZDHC defines three conformance levels that indicate progressive achievement in chemical management. Level 1 represents basic compliance with MRSL and wastewater requirements. Level 2 indicates good performance with more comprehensive chemical management systems. Level 3 represents aspirational best practices and continuous improvement leadership.
Benefits for Manufacturers
Participating in the ZDHC program helps manufacturers meet the chemical management requirements of major brands, many of which have committed to ZDHC goals. The program reduces chemical-related risks including regulatory penalties, product recalls, and reputational damage. Environmental performance improves through systematic chemical substitution and wastewater management. Access to the ZDHC Gateway's approved chemical suppliers simplifies procurement decisions, and ZDHC participation provides competitive advantage in brand partnerships.
Implementation Path
Manufacturers typically begin ZDHC implementation by joining as a contributor and conducting a comprehensive chemical inventory. Non-conformant chemicals are then replaced with MRSL-compliant alternatives. Facilities implement wastewater testing programs aligned with ZDHC guidelines and report results through the Gateway platform, demonstrating their commitment to hazardous chemical elimination.
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