Twill Weave

Twill weave creates a distinctive diagonal pattern on the fabric surface through a systematic offset of the interlacing points. In this construction, the weft thread passes over two or more warp threads before going under one or more, with each successive row shifted to create the characteristic diagonal lines known as wales.

The structure of twill weave is described by the number of threads the weft passes over and under. A 2/1 twill passes over two warp threads and under one, while a 2/2 twill passes over two and under two. The direction of the diagonal can be either right-hand (rising from left to right) or left-hand (rising from right to left), and this direction is determined by the offset pattern used during weaving. Unlike plain weave, twill fabrics have distinct face and back sides, with the diagonal pattern more pronounced on one surface.

Twill weave produces fabrics with notably different characteristics from plain weave. The longer floats between interlacing points allow the threads to pack more closely together, creating a denser fabric with softer drape. Twill fabrics are generally more wrinkle-resistant because the threads have greater freedom to move and redistribute stress. The diagonal surface texture also helps hide soil and stains, making twill practical for everyday wear. Despite having fewer interlacing points than plain weave, twill fabrics of equivalent thread count are typically stronger because the threads can be packed more tightly.

Common twill constructions include 2/1 twill used in denim, 2/2 twill found in gabardine and many suiting fabrics, and herringbone which reverses the twill direction at regular intervals to create a zigzag pattern. Twill weave is widely used for denim, chino, suiting fabrics, and increasingly for bedding where its soft drape and wrinkle resistance are valued.