Basket Weave

Basket weave is a variation of plain weave where groups of warp and weft threads are interlaced together rather than individual threads. This construction creates a distinctive checkerboard-like pattern and produces a more textured, dimensional surface than standard plain weave while maintaining the fundamental over-under interlacing principle.

The most common basket weave structure is 2/2, where two warp threads and two weft threads are treated as single units, passing over and under each other in the same alternating pattern as plain weave. This grouping creates visible square blocks on the fabric surface. Variations include 3/3 basket weave for more pronounced texture and irregular basket weaves that combine different groupings for decorative effects. The grouped threads create a looser structure than plain weave, with more space between the interlacing points.

Basket weave produces fabrics with characteristics distinct from standard plain weave. The textured, dimensional surface adds visual interest and a more casual appearance. The looser structure provides greater flexibility and improved drape compared to tightly woven plain weave fabrics. However, this same looseness means basket weave fabrics are less stable and the threads can shift more easily, particularly under stress. The exposed thread groups are also more prone to snagging than the tightly interlocked threads of plain weave.

Oxford weave, commonly used in dress shirts, is a specific type of basket weave that uses a fine warp yarn and a heavier weft yarn in a modified 2/1 construction. Basket weave construction is widely used for casual suiting where its texture adds visual interest, sportswear where flexibility is valued, decorative fabrics where the dimensional surface creates design appeal, and upholstery where the substantial hand feel is appropriate.