Leno Weave

Leno weave is a unique fabric structure where pairs of warp threads twist around each other between weft insertions, creating an open, mesh-like fabric that remains stable despite its loose appearance. This twisting action locks the weft threads securely in position, preventing the thread slippage that would occur in a conventional open weave.

The structure of leno weave requires a special attachment on the loom called a doup or leno device, which crosses one warp thread over its neighbor before each weft insertion. After the weft passes through, the warp threads return to their original positions, effectively trapping the weft between the twisted warps. This mechanical locking creates a fabric that maintains its open structure even under stress, unlike loosely woven plain weave fabrics where threads can shift and bunch together.

Leno weave produces fabrics with distinctive characteristics that make them suitable for specific applications. The open construction provides excellent air permeability and creates a lightweight, airy fabric. Despite the visible openness, the twisted warp structure makes leno fabrics remarkably stable and resistant to thread slippage. The fabric maintains its shape and the spacing between threads remains consistent even with handling and washing.

Several variations of leno weave exist to achieve different effects. Full leno uses the twisting technique across the entire fabric width, while half leno alternates twisted and non-twisted sections. Mock leno simulates the open appearance using conventional weaving techniques without actual thread twisting. Leno weave finds applications in curtain sheers where light filtration and air flow are desired, mosquito netting where stability of the mesh openings is critical, fruit and produce bags where breathability prevents spoilage, and medical gauze where the open structure allows wound drainage while the stable construction prevents unraveling.